It's still dark when we set out. I'm woefully under caffeinated, and yet still fizzing with excitement; it's impossible not to be. As we arrive at our destination, I see I'm not the only one. The ...

Three hours: that’s how long it takes Shelita Buffet to get ready. There are false eyelashes to glue and cheekbones to contour; there’s a neon-bright wig to preen and a sequined pink leotard to tug on ...